Today was the penultimate day and no matter how I did the maths there was no way out of doing a minimum of 24km. For some reason I thought the last days into Santiago would be a pleasant downhill stroll but a quick glance at the elevation chart proved otherwise. A steady climb out of Ribadiso followed by some sharp climbs and descents. And worst of all, the crowds were back!
We set off early and puffed our way up the first hill. The weather forecast was overcast but little chance of rain and that makes for very pleasant walking. We made good time and spent a large portion of the day discussing the fact that tomorrow was our last day. The walk was mostly uneventful, as was the scenery. There are lots of eucalyptus forests planted in this region and we often found ourselves wandering through them as we reflected on the last 40 days.
It’s hard to believe we’ve done nearly 800km.. and it’s harder to believe it’s coming to an end. If nothing else it’s shown me that even a large challenge can be overcome by nibbling away bit by bit.. 25km one day, 18km the next.. day by day I nibbled my way across an entire country. And in doing so I met some incredible people and experienced some amazing places. Nearly every aspect of this walk has been positive, the sense of achievement, forging new friendships, witnessing acts of kindness between complete strangers. People from all around the world walking together and most sharing the same goal. There isn’t many times where you will encounter such a large group of people all sharing the same space and all going in the same direction both physically and, dare I say it? Spiritually.. (I use that in a very loose sense). For me there wasn’t any huge revelations, I didn’t find Jesus (At one point I thought I had but it turns out it was just a German guy with a beard). But, despite the lack of hallelujah moments I still feel like something has changed.. maybe something small and maybe it will fade but there’s definitely something different and as soon as I work out what it is you’ll be the first to know.
Are you surprising yourself with your musings? I read this recently: spirituality is about experience, religion is about belief systems. And what a pen picture, nibbling your way across Spain! Hope your walk into Santiago goes well.
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Dear Andy I believe I spotted you outside a café in Pedrouzo yesterday. When I went back a few mins later, you were gone. May see you along the way today!
Jean
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If I don’t see you on the path you’ll find me either at the cathedral or burger king 🙂 !!
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wow, your tone has become quite serious! Although I haven’t met you, I am so proud that you will manage to achieve such a major accomplishment. Have loved the blog and have been reading it while eating breakfast each day! Buen Camino!
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As all you posts, loved today’s writing. Love the “nibbling away across a county”. 11 months after my camino I still think of our experience daily . Hope many good things await back in real life!
Burn camino
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Dear Andy, I follow you since your first posts in the Camino de Santiago Forum.
You caught my attention because my approach to Pilgrimages is completely different to yours. I follow a (very good, non-veg) diet, I moderately drink, I don’t smoke, I walk or run about 3000 Km every year since ages and my average length of a stage of Camino is not less than 30 Km (the longer, the better). You can call me an enthusiast, fanatic and compulsive walker. 😀
So, I was really curious to see how you would cope with this ordeal. I admire your determination and endurance.
CONGRATULATION!!!
Thank you so much for your blog. I’ve leaned a lot from you!
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Positively love todays blog, Andy…. now,. Start saving your euros. Perhaps next, that great walk in ireland, or the one in Japan to the mountainous temples, or the great wall of China! See you in one of these after Santiago, which is, for me, iff all goes “right”, in october this year. You have truly inspired me to walk my own walk, and with humor and candor. Hope you will follow my blog then, i will need a kind of muse, and will send you the link before i go. Will be interesting to read your final notes.
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I have so enjoyed your posts over the past weeks. I am sorry that they will end. Congratulations on your pilgrimage. I relived my fall 2009 through your posts and loved the posts, remembering many that I had seen.
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The feelings of a closing Camino are such a strange combination. On the one hand you’re looking forward to reaching Santiago, but on the other hand you know you will miss the walking, as crazy as that may sound, and for sure you will miss the camaraderie of the Camino. Don’t be surprised if you find yourself with the desire to walk another Camino. I have enjoyed your blog so much. You’ve given me inspiration to blog from my upcoming Camino Frances next Mar/Apr.
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My blog address is tomnorthenscold.wordpress.com in case you feel like walking another Camino vicariously.
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